Skincare Through the Ages

If you’ve spent time online recently you may have noticed the “it’s kinda chic…” trend. People share photos with a bold font that states something they deem to be chic. I couldn’t resist jumping on the trend and though I drafted my version quickly, in hindsight, some of the slides held layers of truth…

I’ll be turning 31-years-old in September and in many ways I am starting over, but I never anticipated needing to start over with my approach to skin care. Over the last few months I’ve noticed my “problem areas” getting worse which led me down a rabbit hole of research.

The Standard Approach

I’ll admit that rather than doing research prior to buying, I recently went to Ulta and restocked my skin care products, opting for brands I was comfortable with and recommendations from my mom (thanks, Mom!). But it will come as no surprise that as we age our skin also ages, developing new needs in the process.

In the 2024 New York Presbyterian article “A Guide to Skincare for Every Age” by Dorothy Cucci, it is explained that at it’s core, almost every skin care routine should include a cleanser, a moisturizer, and an SPF.

Cucci goes on to explain that “The FDA does not recommend using sunscreen on infants younger than 6 months old, due to their sensitive skin; the best form of protection at this age is to keep them out of direct sunlight.” But once their older, it’s recommend that children wear an SPF of 30 or higher.

While I haven’t been as militant with my own SPF use this year, I always prefer to use a reef and environmentally safe version – which you can find in sunscreen guide, here!

Skincare Through the Ages

As you enter puberty, Cucci and Dr. Lindsey Bordone, a dermatologist at NewYork-Presbyerian/Columbia University Irving Medical Center, recommend adjusting the standard approach to address acne, containing ingredients such as salicylic acid. But, they caution that adolescents and teenagers should avoid many of the “buzz worthy” ingredients such as retinol.

“Adolescents have very youthful, sensitive skin, so products that contain active ingredients such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, and salicylic acid can be irritating,” Bordone said in the article.

You might be shocked to learn that this is the same routine recommended for people in their 20s – and even into your 30s! But regardless of what you’re spot treating you should continue to use the standard three products: cleanser, moisturizer, SPF.

Pivoting away from acne products and back into the “standard approach” is the American Academy of Dermatology‘s recommendation for those in their 40s and 50s, with the additions of “stop smoking, eat healthy foods, and get enough sleep.”

My Skin Care Epiphany

I have long lamented the large pores on my cheeks. I am very luck that those pores along with some bumpiness on my chin and the occasional white head, tend to be my worst skincare concerns – not counting the product-based allergic reaction! Because of these concerns I have always treated my skin from the “treating acne” mindset; opting for black charcoal treatments, the deep cleansing effects of rice, and double cleansing for the “deepest clean” possible.

Earlier this year I stumbled upon three products while in T.J. Maxx: the Precision Beauty Smoothing Hyaluronic Acid + Niacinamide serum, the MONTNATURE Rice Ginseng Toner, and The Face Shop Rice Water Bright Foaming Cleanser.

Through a little research I’ve learned that hyaluronic acid helps to lock in moisture and niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is used to strength the skin’s moisture barrier, minimize pore size, control oil, and even help fade dark spots. I was loving the results of this serum but haven’t been able to find it again, no matter where I look! Similarly, I have yet to see this toner again and that’s quite alright as I still prefer witch hazel for that purpose.

I was able to find that cleanser again at T.J. Maxx however, and I was about half way through the second tube when I made my way to Ulta. As I said above, on my recent product restocking trip I hadn’t put any pre-thought into what I was buying; I just knew that I needed a cleanser, a moisturizer, and I like to use some sort of serum.

I ended up purchasing: The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA, The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser, and The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum. To no one’s shock, I’m loving this niacinamide serum and even a week later I’m seeing results; and at just $6 USD a bottle, this is a product I’ll be relying on to keep my pores in check!

I went back to The Ordinary moisturizer after using and feeling ambivalent towards the Bubble Cloud Surf moisturizer, which I found it to be too lightweight at the time. In the past I’ve also felt ambivalent towards The Ordinary moisturizer because it seemed too lightweight as well, but that’s when I had a shocking realization: I’m the thing causing my skin issues!

Approaching Skin Care in My 30s

I’ll be honest, I haven’t been loving this Squalene cleanser. To me, my skin felt as if there was some sort of product residue left over which gives me “the ick”. Then I started doing research and stumbled upon this New York Magazine article about skin care in your 30s that specifically recommends this squalene cleanser for acne & oily prone skin for being hydrating without clogging pores.

As it turns out, treating my skin as if I had deeply clogged pores and an overbuild up of oils had actually dried out my skin. This in turn caused my skin to overcompensate for what I was stripping away. And because my skin felt dry I was using the thickest moisturizers I could find – clogging my pores.

So now I’m trying to have an open mind regarding the Squalene cleanser, but there are some practices and products that I’ll be carrying into this new chapter!

If It Ain’t Broken…

Years ago I shared how I learned about The 60 Second Rule – quite literally, you wash your face with your hands for no less than 60 seconds. I’ve used this method ever since: sometimes in conjunction with oil and double cleansing, and even when I would use a silicone scrubber. Due to the milky consistency of this cleanser I’ve found that the 60 Second Rule is much more effective with my hands, rather than the silicone scrubber.

Because I’m taking a more gentle approach to cleansing, I want to ensure that my skin is actually clean so I’ll be following up with one of my preferred toners: the Thayers Original Facial Toner with witch hazel and aloe vera.

Interestingly enough, none of the research I’ve done has said anything about using tools to aid in cleansing but they have mentioned the use of mild exfoliating products. Nearly a year ago I got my hands on the viral Dr Melaxin Peel Shot Exfoliating White Rice Ampoule and it’s become my go-to exfoliating product. I recently ordered the Black Rice variation as well and I’m not a fan.

And while I didn’t see any mention of eye or sheet masks, that’s one little luxury I’ll never give up! My preferred options are the Avocado and Aloe Vera TONYMOLY sheet masks, and the Apres Active Beauty Lift + Restore Collagen Eye Masks!